Day 1 - 10th June 2010 (Thursday) : Delhi - Mathura - Bharatpur - Mahuwa - Hindaun - Karauli - Kaila Devi - Gangapur City - Bhadoti - Sawai Madhopur/ 499 Kilometers
It's been a overdue driving itch which I wanted to do by visiting some new places at my own pace and most importantly with all unlimited time in hand. This is the time when I could actually move out with no confrontations from anyone and my good colleague Sanjay Ji happliy agreed to accompany me.
I picked him from his residence in Indirapuram, Gazhiabad at 0540 am on 10th June 2010. Approached NH 2 and drove thru via Faridabad, Kosi, Mathura where we have been able to avoid morning rush as we started early. We left highway and took right towards Bharatpur. Road was not so good but still far better than many of thoes I have driven on. It was almost 0830 am when we found that we can avoid getting in to Bharatpur town by taking bypass to connect with NH 11 (Agra - Jaipur). It is the best highway on Golden Triangle (Delhi - Agra - Jaipur - Delhi).
It was a quick drive till Mahuwa from where we took right towards Mahuwa town and then thru the city we went under same NH 11 while leaving highway and Mahuwa in North. It was also good single road towards Hindaun and then to our first stop Karauli which was earlier part of Sawai Madhopur District and now it a district itself.
We were very happy that we are going to make this 310 kms journey in almost 5 hours and then few kilometers before Pachna Dam (Karauli) on a turn I didn't seriously thought about avoiding some stones on road and immediately hear that one of these stone have done some damage. We parked aside and moved out thinking it was rear bumper but to my surprise it was rear left tyre which bursted with a big dent on rim. Without thinking much we quickly changed tyre. It was first time of slightly less than 6 years I used jack of my car which was packed in a plastic.
Continued towards Karauli and by 1120 am we reach Bhanwar Vilas Palace where Maharaja of Karauli H H Krishna Chandra Pal ji resides and also runs a larger part of his property as a Heritage Hotel. Someone told me to watch for Animal Trophies in Karauli and I was really amazed to see the size of Tiger in their drawing room. We met the famlily and then decided to visit the hidden treasure of Karauli, it's City palace quickly. As we entered the old city wall, road started getting narrow with typical small town shops on both sides. Unique was "Lacca" work (mostly bangle making) and handcraft woodwork along with some sweet shops too. It was huge and beautiful, compared to most of heritage palaces, it was well preserved and work for restoration was going on. We also visited famous Madan Mohan Ji (Krishna) Temple in palace complex. We could only visit 1/3rd and best parts of palace as it was too big. From the top of it we could see "Step Wells", "Chhattris", "Lakes" at a distance.
We returnd back to Bhanwar Vilas Palace after spending almost 2 hours there. Had a quick round of this palace hotel in a huge estate, had very good lunch with family and left Karauli by 1500hrs. I have heard a lot about Kaila Devi Temple of Karauli since childhood so we had a plan to pay a visit here before continuing to our destination of the day - Ranthambore, Distt. Sawai Madhopur.
Temple is 23 kms from Karauli. We had very quick "Darshan" as we were directed well by Krishna Chandra Pal ji of Karauli and due to peak summer afternoon there was almost no rush. What I have heard about that it is a very busy temple and even being in Rajasthan 90% of devotees are from UP & MP as border is not too far.
We could leave Temple complex by 1550. Backtracked for 18 kilometers from where we took left turn towards Gangapur city which was 47 kilometers. I was happy to see good road but that happiness lasted less than a kilometer as then it was single lane bumpy road. After reaching Gangapur City we took left towards "Lalsot" and again took left from Idgah for "Bhadoti".
Road was too narrow here with sharp edges on both end, moreover there was a tractor every kilometer who were resisted to leave the road so either we had to give way or to over take we carefully move down and drove ahead. We continued and saw bad road, very bad road and then almost no road. It was a concern as we had no "stepny" as only place from where we could get a new Tyre and rim repaired was Jaipur or Kota. So while driving without a spare tyre, the feeling was like driving with fuel needle on reserve with no signs of Petrol Pumps around.
It was a driving experience where sometimes we found nowhere to go with bus loaded with more than 50 passengers on its roof. Lately we approached Lalsot - Kota Mega Highway from where we took left towards Bhadoti, Surval and then Sawai Madhopur.
We reached Ranthambore by almost 1900hrs. Our respected Arvind Ji of Ranthambore Regency was waiting for us who was also guiding us and kept checking if we were fine throughout the day.
After relaxing for some 30 minutes we decided to finish our visit to Taj Lodge. Met very dear Nagendra Singh Hada Ji. As we also wanted to visit Jhalawar on this trip, he shared a lot of information about and around Jhalawar. We retired for the day after delicious dinner.
Day 2 - 11th June 2010 (Friday): Sawai Madhopur - Indergarh - Lakheri - Talera - Bundi - Kota - Keshavrai Patan - Lakheri - Indergarh - Sawai Madhopur/ 345 Kms
It was planned to start out day by hiking up The Ranthambore Fort and pay visit to Ganesha Temple. Happy to see lot of sinages placed by ASI. We had no plan to visit National Park as our aim was to see places, routes we don't ever get time to see. We have visited Tiger Den on the way back. After breakfast at hotel we have started for Bundi in Arvind Ji and his driver Shabbir. Drove past one of most beautifully located fort - Indergarh (53 kms from Sawai Madhopur on Mega Highway) We reached Bundi (87 kms from Indergarh) in 3 hours where we met our very experienced guide Mr. Bhati. He guided us thru beautiful Bundi Fort and its Art Gallery. Later he also showed us most beautiful Stepwell I have ever seen, then we continued to Kota (37 kms from Bundi), crossed river Chambal on the bank of which city of Kota is situated. We have been told that Kota is famous for its "Coaching Centres" and "Kachori's". First we met Bhatnagar Ji of Hadoti Tours (Hadoti Region constitutes Kota, Bundi, Baran & Jhalawar Districts). He informed us few things about tourism and places of interest in this region.
I got a new tyre (as in Michelin same size was not available I got a good Yokohama) and got rim repaired. While waiting for this, we crossed road at Aerodrome Circle and had Kachori's and Kulfi at Jai Jinendra Sweets, too good Kachori's!!
Later we visited Sukhdham Kothi (heritage hotel) and Umaid Bhawan Palace (heritage hotel). To our surprise, we have not seen such a versatile, unique and vast collection of Animal Trophies which we have seen at Umaid Bhawan Palace. It is a very beautiful and very well managed palace hotel. Billiards rooms is a must see. Even Dining hall and banquet rooms are too good.
As it was getting dark, we decided to travel back around 1920hrs and we were back in Ranthambore by 2150hrs.
Day 3 - 12th June 2010 (Saturday): Sawai Madhopur - Khatoli - Itawa - Mangrole - Baran - Shergarh - Khanpur - Jhalawar - Jahalar Patan - Darrah - Kota - Keshav Rai Patan - Lakheri - Indergarh - Sawai Madhopur/ 500 Kms
There were few options of travel on day 3 - June 13, 2010 so before breakfast we tanked up our car, but later it was decied that we will visit Shergharh with Arvind Ji and Chandrakant Ji who is one of the best Naturalists in Ranthambore National Park. Took a route thru main Sawai Madhopur City towards Chambal River. We spotted some deers and black buck on the way. We never thought it will take us almost 6 hours to reach Shergharh, Distt. Baran where we reached driving thru Khatauli, Itawa, Mangrol, Baran & Atru. It is a small Fort city with a beautiful haveli on the banks of river. Spend some 30 minutes in clicking photos and meeting the owner before we got to know that Jhalawar is only 55 kms and we could rather make it today instead of returning to the region tomorrow.
As we approached Jhalawar on Kota - Baran - Indore/ Bhopal highway, we found a sinage for "Gagaron Fort" towards out right and we could also see a hill top fort. Till we reached very close, it was difficult to forecast if we are on right way. Fort looked stunning from the road thru dried river bed of "Kali Sindh". We drove inside the fort wall and tried locating someone or the palaces inside. It was really dissapointing to know that there was nothing except for lot of renovation with no signs of any heritage. There was nothing significant and worth talking about. Only on out way out we woke up two ASI staff who informed that renovation work is stopped as funds are over and ther is nothing as such to see. Location of this fort was great but inside it was a great disaster.
We moved to city and visited "Garh" where we saw abandoned Natyashala (Theater). You could see No Interest to maintain this beautiful heritage by anyone. We visited Sun Temple at Jhalar Patan but here too instead of Sun God, Lord Vishnu's idol is worshiped there. Surrounding market was lively and colourful.
We were driven back thru Suket, Darrah Wildlife Sanctuary and Kota to Ranthambore where we reached by 2230hrs.
Day 4 - 13th June 2010 (Sunday): Sawai Madhopur - Indergarh - Lakheri - Keshavrai Patan - Talera - Bundi by pass - Bijoliya - Menal - Pasroli - Bijaipur - Bassi/ 337 Kms)
I didn't had opportunity to drive in last 2 days so today was my day again. It was too early for us for breakfast so we left with a thought that we can have something on the way when we will feel like. We started off at 0655hrs from Sawai Madhopur and made our first stop at Keshav Rai Patan to visit beautiful temple on the banks of river Chambal. This was our fourth time we were passing thru same road in 3 days. We were there at 0825 hours. Left for Bijoliya which was our next stop. We took single road to Talera/ Bundi and then single road to Bijoliya was also very good and scenic even in the month of June. Before entering Bijoliya we turned left on connecting road to Chhittorgarh Highway NH 76. As we moved less than a kilometer on connecting road we could see 6th Century Temple Complex on our right. It is a ASI Protected Monument but there was no sinage on name or history of this temple complex. All three temples were dedicated to Shiva. Two temples had a deep "Garbha Griha". I have seen well connected with main temple which also had steps to reach water in well from inside. There is also a very beautiful stepwell in same complex. Bijoliya village had a fort wall but there was no sign of any other ancient structure.
We left Bijoliya in after spending some 30 minutes there and soon we were on Kota - Chittorgarh Highway. This is undoubdtly Country's best highway. It is elevated, cemented, 4 lanes and no traffic. In few minutes we reached Menal which also has a historical 6 - 7th Century temple complex and beautiful waterfall site (160 feets). It is June so there was no water. Here also temples were dedicated to lord Shiva. After spending 20 minutes here we drove towards Bijaypur. On the way Sanjay spotted a sinage with beatiful photo of Nahargarh palace which looked like Lake Palace Udaipur. We decided to leave highway and drove 5 kms on dirt road to this place. Main entrance gate was locked, so we parked our car outside and entered thu small gate of hotel compound. While walking towards hotel which must me at least 500 meters we suddenly spotted two big size dogs barking towards us with no other sign of human beings. Best was to move back. By the time we managed to reach the main gate, we saw someone coming. He opend the gate for us and directed towards where care take Mr. Parbat Singh stays. Mr. Singh very kindly showed us this beautiful property surrounded by a man made lake which was dried now and hills with forest cover. Nahargarh has beautiful rooms, all facing lake and hills. Inner courtyard gardes are also very beautiful. Lovely infinity pool on one edge of hotel. We were happy to learn something new.
We headed back towards the higway and had a superb drive towards Bassi which is almost on highway whereas for Bijaypur we need to good 14 kms interior. After paying toll it was less than a kilometer's driver from where we took left turn towards Bijaypur. Small single but very scenic road. Bijaypur is almost at Rajasthan - Madhya Pradesh Border. I have heard a lot about this place when I used to handle German Market. Very nice and clean heritage property with serious attention towards what all one can do in and around Bijaipur like Yoga, Birdwatching, Nature walks, Jungle Camping, Jeep Safaris, Horse Safaris, Trekking, Cycling. In one part of this property is a small stud farm with some 15 horses. Owners also put swiss cottages on Pangarh Lake which is approximately 15 minutes drive away. Dhananjay, son of owner Rao Narendra Singh Ji has very kindly shown us the property and we had delicious lunch at his place.
We drove back towards highway and reached Bassi Fort Palace at 1610 with directions over phone from owner Col. Randhir Singh's son Karni Singh. Karni is a good friend and we got to know about him being at Bassi an evening prior. We had good chat with both of them before we were asked to take some rest. Bed was megnatic and I didn't realise it was Karni knocking the door so that we can leave to visit village by evening. Karni told us that Bassi is main market for almost 50 small village around. Bassi is also famous for its wooden toys made in this village. We visited a local toy maker, temple complex, royal family cenotaphs and then to Orai Dam. We reached back at 2040hrs to Palace and had a great session about history of Mewar and it's Rulers by Col. Randhir Singh Ji. It was midnight while we finished our dinner and good stories about the region.
Day 5 - 14th June 2010 (Monday): Bassi - Chittorgarh - Bhilwara - Vijay Nagar - Beawar - Bar - Nimaj/ 327 Kms
After many days it was first time we didn't put any alarms or wake up calls so had a liberty to sleep extra. Had very good breakfast of Aloo Parathas and left Palace after thanking Karni and his family for all good hospitality. I wanted to take photos of areas we visited last evening in good day light which took some additional 30 minutes. While we were cruzing on NH 76 towards Chittorgarh, got a call from Karni that I have left my ring in room. When Highway is so good, you love to drive it was an opportunity to drive that extra 27 kilometers to come back from where we took U turn. Actual distance from Bassi to Chittaurgarh Fort is 33 kms . We were told some good stories about this Fort which is situated on a pleatu of 7 kms and all plains around. It was a tactical fort but not at all strategic. It is a live fort as there is a huge population which lives between 7 gates of fort. Victory Tower is very impressive along with lot of other temples and monuments. There is a inner road on which one can drive and take round of entire fort. On the eastern gate side there is an identical but smaller tower known as "Tower of Fame" and a beautiful temple both constructed by followers of Jainism.
We left Chittorgarh and drove towards NH 79 via Bhilwara towards Vijay Nagar which was 132 kms. We took left turn towards Beawar and after driving 3.5 kms we reached Bijay Niwal Palace owned by once rulers of Masuda. In this dry summer it was like an Oasis with lush green grass and beautiful palace building in between. It is quite centrally located on Jaipur - Udaipur Highway and Sawai Madhopur - Jodhpur route. We were given a show around of property and hand good lunch there. It is very private 15 rooms property with very good use of Solar Energy, water treatement so that it can be used for various other purposes, automation was an positive eye opener. We drove back to Highway to take fuel and then continued back on State Highway to Beawar. It was good quality road. From Beawar we drove towards Bar and then we reached Nimaj at 1715hrs. Here too staff was very kind and service oriented after having cold towels and welcome drink we were taken to our room in Nimaj Palace. After some rest we decided to go around. We drove 3 kms to "Magar Mandi Mata Temple" of 9th Century which had history of construction, distruction, animal sacrifices and miracles. Walked thru a small village "Khera Deogarh". Drove further to sunset point by the side of Chhatrasagar Lake. We were back by 2000hrs. Spend some time chatting with owner Thakur Sahib. Had a early, very good dinner with variety of fresh vegetables, taste was so good compared to what we get in Delhi.
Day 6 - 15th June 2010 (Tuesday): Nimaj - Merta - Nagaur - Deshnok - Bikaner/ 304 kms
It's been a overdue driving itch which I wanted to do by visiting some new places at my own pace and most importantly with all unlimited time in hand. This is the time when I could actually move out with no confrontations from anyone and my good colleague Sanjay Ji happliy agreed to accompany me.
I picked him from his residence in Indirapuram, Gazhiabad at 0540 am on 10th June 2010. Approached NH 2 and drove thru via Faridabad, Kosi, Mathura where we have been able to avoid morning rush as we started early. We left highway and took right towards Bharatpur. Road was not so good but still far better than many of thoes I have driven on. It was almost 0830 am when we found that we can avoid getting in to Bharatpur town by taking bypass to connect with NH 11 (Agra - Jaipur). It is the best highway on Golden Triangle (Delhi - Agra - Jaipur - Delhi).
It was a quick drive till Mahuwa from where we took right towards Mahuwa town and then thru the city we went under same NH 11 while leaving highway and Mahuwa in North. It was also good single road towards Hindaun and then to our first stop Karauli which was earlier part of Sawai Madhopur District and now it a district itself.
We were very happy that we are going to make this 310 kms journey in almost 5 hours and then few kilometers before Pachna Dam (Karauli) on a turn I didn't seriously thought about avoiding some stones on road and immediately hear that one of these stone have done some damage. We parked aside and moved out thinking it was rear bumper but to my surprise it was rear left tyre which bursted with a big dent on rim. Without thinking much we quickly changed tyre. It was first time of slightly less than 6 years I used jack of my car which was packed in a plastic.
Continued towards Karauli and by 1120 am we reach Bhanwar Vilas Palace where Maharaja of Karauli H H Krishna Chandra Pal ji resides and also runs a larger part of his property as a Heritage Hotel. Someone told me to watch for Animal Trophies in Karauli and I was really amazed to see the size of Tiger in their drawing room. We met the famlily and then decided to visit the hidden treasure of Karauli, it's City palace quickly. As we entered the old city wall, road started getting narrow with typical small town shops on both sides. Unique was "Lacca" work (mostly bangle making) and handcraft woodwork along with some sweet shops too. It was huge and beautiful, compared to most of heritage palaces, it was well preserved and work for restoration was going on. We also visited famous Madan Mohan Ji (Krishna) Temple in palace complex. We could only visit 1/3rd and best parts of palace as it was too big. From the top of it we could see "Step Wells", "Chhattris", "Lakes" at a distance.
We returnd back to Bhanwar Vilas Palace after spending almost 2 hours there. Had a quick round of this palace hotel in a huge estate, had very good lunch with family and left Karauli by 1500hrs. I have heard a lot about Kaila Devi Temple of Karauli since childhood so we had a plan to pay a visit here before continuing to our destination of the day - Ranthambore, Distt. Sawai Madhopur.
Temple is 23 kms from Karauli. We had very quick "Darshan" as we were directed well by Krishna Chandra Pal ji of Karauli and due to peak summer afternoon there was almost no rush. What I have heard about that it is a very busy temple and even being in Rajasthan 90% of devotees are from UP & MP as border is not too far.
We could leave Temple complex by 1550. Backtracked for 18 kilometers from where we took left turn towards Gangapur city which was 47 kilometers. I was happy to see good road but that happiness lasted less than a kilometer as then it was single lane bumpy road. After reaching Gangapur City we took left towards "Lalsot" and again took left from Idgah for "Bhadoti".
Road was too narrow here with sharp edges on both end, moreover there was a tractor every kilometer who were resisted to leave the road so either we had to give way or to over take we carefully move down and drove ahead. We continued and saw bad road, very bad road and then almost no road. It was a concern as we had no "stepny" as only place from where we could get a new Tyre and rim repaired was Jaipur or Kota. So while driving without a spare tyre, the feeling was like driving with fuel needle on reserve with no signs of Petrol Pumps around.
It was a driving experience where sometimes we found nowhere to go with bus loaded with more than 50 passengers on its roof. Lately we approached Lalsot - Kota Mega Highway from where we took left towards Bhadoti, Surval and then Sawai Madhopur.
We reached Ranthambore by almost 1900hrs. Our respected Arvind Ji of Ranthambore Regency was waiting for us who was also guiding us and kept checking if we were fine throughout the day.
After relaxing for some 30 minutes we decided to finish our visit to Taj Lodge. Met very dear Nagendra Singh Hada Ji. As we also wanted to visit Jhalawar on this trip, he shared a lot of information about and around Jhalawar. We retired for the day after delicious dinner.
Day 2 - 11th June 2010 (Friday): Sawai Madhopur - Indergarh - Lakheri - Talera - Bundi - Kota - Keshavrai Patan - Lakheri - Indergarh - Sawai Madhopur/ 345 Kms
It was planned to start out day by hiking up The Ranthambore Fort and pay visit to Ganesha Temple. Happy to see lot of sinages placed by ASI. We had no plan to visit National Park as our aim was to see places, routes we don't ever get time to see. We have visited Tiger Den on the way back. After breakfast at hotel we have started for Bundi in Arvind Ji and his driver Shabbir. Drove past one of most beautifully located fort - Indergarh (53 kms from Sawai Madhopur on Mega Highway) We reached Bundi (87 kms from Indergarh) in 3 hours where we met our very experienced guide Mr. Bhati. He guided us thru beautiful Bundi Fort and its Art Gallery. Later he also showed us most beautiful Stepwell I have ever seen, then we continued to Kota (37 kms from Bundi), crossed river Chambal on the bank of which city of Kota is situated. We have been told that Kota is famous for its "Coaching Centres" and "Kachori's". First we met Bhatnagar Ji of Hadoti Tours (Hadoti Region constitutes Kota, Bundi, Baran & Jhalawar Districts). He informed us few things about tourism and places of interest in this region.
I got a new tyre (as in Michelin same size was not available I got a good Yokohama) and got rim repaired. While waiting for this, we crossed road at Aerodrome Circle and had Kachori's and Kulfi at Jai Jinendra Sweets, too good Kachori's!!
Later we visited Sukhdham Kothi (heritage hotel) and Umaid Bhawan Palace (heritage hotel). To our surprise, we have not seen such a versatile, unique and vast collection of Animal Trophies which we have seen at Umaid Bhawan Palace. It is a very beautiful and very well managed palace hotel. Billiards rooms is a must see. Even Dining hall and banquet rooms are too good.
As it was getting dark, we decided to travel back around 1920hrs and we were back in Ranthambore by 2150hrs.
Day 3 - 12th June 2010 (Saturday): Sawai Madhopur - Khatoli - Itawa - Mangrole - Baran - Shergarh - Khanpur - Jhalawar - Jahalar Patan - Darrah - Kota - Keshav Rai Patan - Lakheri - Indergarh - Sawai Madhopur/ 500 Kms
There were few options of travel on day 3 - June 13, 2010 so before breakfast we tanked up our car, but later it was decied that we will visit Shergharh with Arvind Ji and Chandrakant Ji who is one of the best Naturalists in Ranthambore National Park. Took a route thru main Sawai Madhopur City towards Chambal River. We spotted some deers and black buck on the way. We never thought it will take us almost 6 hours to reach Shergharh, Distt. Baran where we reached driving thru Khatauli, Itawa, Mangrol, Baran & Atru. It is a small Fort city with a beautiful haveli on the banks of river. Spend some 30 minutes in clicking photos and meeting the owner before we got to know that Jhalawar is only 55 kms and we could rather make it today instead of returning to the region tomorrow.
As we approached Jhalawar on Kota - Baran - Indore/ Bhopal highway, we found a sinage for "Gagaron Fort" towards out right and we could also see a hill top fort. Till we reached very close, it was difficult to forecast if we are on right way. Fort looked stunning from the road thru dried river bed of "Kali Sindh". We drove inside the fort wall and tried locating someone or the palaces inside. It was really dissapointing to know that there was nothing except for lot of renovation with no signs of any heritage. There was nothing significant and worth talking about. Only on out way out we woke up two ASI staff who informed that renovation work is stopped as funds are over and ther is nothing as such to see. Location of this fort was great but inside it was a great disaster.
We moved to city and visited "Garh" where we saw abandoned Natyashala (Theater). You could see No Interest to maintain this beautiful heritage by anyone. We visited Sun Temple at Jhalar Patan but here too instead of Sun God, Lord Vishnu's idol is worshiped there. Surrounding market was lively and colourful.
We were driven back thru Suket, Darrah Wildlife Sanctuary and Kota to Ranthambore where we reached by 2230hrs.
Day 4 - 13th June 2010 (Sunday): Sawai Madhopur - Indergarh - Lakheri - Keshavrai Patan - Talera - Bundi by pass - Bijoliya - Menal - Pasroli - Bijaipur - Bassi/ 337 Kms)
I didn't had opportunity to drive in last 2 days so today was my day again. It was too early for us for breakfast so we left with a thought that we can have something on the way when we will feel like. We started off at 0655hrs from Sawai Madhopur and made our first stop at Keshav Rai Patan to visit beautiful temple on the banks of river Chambal. This was our fourth time we were passing thru same road in 3 days. We were there at 0825 hours. Left for Bijoliya which was our next stop. We took single road to Talera/ Bundi and then single road to Bijoliya was also very good and scenic even in the month of June. Before entering Bijoliya we turned left on connecting road to Chhittorgarh Highway NH 76. As we moved less than a kilometer on connecting road we could see 6th Century Temple Complex on our right. It is a ASI Protected Monument but there was no sinage on name or history of this temple complex. All three temples were dedicated to Shiva. Two temples had a deep "Garbha Griha". I have seen well connected with main temple which also had steps to reach water in well from inside. There is also a very beautiful stepwell in same complex. Bijoliya village had a fort wall but there was no sign of any other ancient structure.
We left Bijoliya in after spending some 30 minutes there and soon we were on Kota - Chittorgarh Highway. This is undoubdtly Country's best highway. It is elevated, cemented, 4 lanes and no traffic. In few minutes we reached Menal which also has a historical 6 - 7th Century temple complex and beautiful waterfall site (160 feets). It is June so there was no water. Here also temples were dedicated to lord Shiva. After spending 20 minutes here we drove towards Bijaypur. On the way Sanjay spotted a sinage with beatiful photo of Nahargarh palace which looked like Lake Palace Udaipur. We decided to leave highway and drove 5 kms on dirt road to this place. Main entrance gate was locked, so we parked our car outside and entered thu small gate of hotel compound. While walking towards hotel which must me at least 500 meters we suddenly spotted two big size dogs barking towards us with no other sign of human beings. Best was to move back. By the time we managed to reach the main gate, we saw someone coming. He opend the gate for us and directed towards where care take Mr. Parbat Singh stays. Mr. Singh very kindly showed us this beautiful property surrounded by a man made lake which was dried now and hills with forest cover. Nahargarh has beautiful rooms, all facing lake and hills. Inner courtyard gardes are also very beautiful. Lovely infinity pool on one edge of hotel. We were happy to learn something new.
We headed back towards the higway and had a superb drive towards Bassi which is almost on highway whereas for Bijaypur we need to good 14 kms interior. After paying toll it was less than a kilometer's driver from where we took left turn towards Bijaypur. Small single but very scenic road. Bijaypur is almost at Rajasthan - Madhya Pradesh Border. I have heard a lot about this place when I used to handle German Market. Very nice and clean heritage property with serious attention towards what all one can do in and around Bijaipur like Yoga, Birdwatching, Nature walks, Jungle Camping, Jeep Safaris, Horse Safaris, Trekking, Cycling. In one part of this property is a small stud farm with some 15 horses. Owners also put swiss cottages on Pangarh Lake which is approximately 15 minutes drive away. Dhananjay, son of owner Rao Narendra Singh Ji has very kindly shown us the property and we had delicious lunch at his place.
We drove back towards highway and reached Bassi Fort Palace at 1610 with directions over phone from owner Col. Randhir Singh's son Karni Singh. Karni is a good friend and we got to know about him being at Bassi an evening prior. We had good chat with both of them before we were asked to take some rest. Bed was megnatic and I didn't realise it was Karni knocking the door so that we can leave to visit village by evening. Karni told us that Bassi is main market for almost 50 small village around. Bassi is also famous for its wooden toys made in this village. We visited a local toy maker, temple complex, royal family cenotaphs and then to Orai Dam. We reached back at 2040hrs to Palace and had a great session about history of Mewar and it's Rulers by Col. Randhir Singh Ji. It was midnight while we finished our dinner and good stories about the region.
Day 5 - 14th June 2010 (Monday): Bassi - Chittorgarh - Bhilwara - Vijay Nagar - Beawar - Bar - Nimaj/ 327 Kms
After many days it was first time we didn't put any alarms or wake up calls so had a liberty to sleep extra. Had very good breakfast of Aloo Parathas and left Palace after thanking Karni and his family for all good hospitality. I wanted to take photos of areas we visited last evening in good day light which took some additional 30 minutes. While we were cruzing on NH 76 towards Chittorgarh, got a call from Karni that I have left my ring in room. When Highway is so good, you love to drive it was an opportunity to drive that extra 27 kilometers to come back from where we took U turn. Actual distance from Bassi to Chittaurgarh Fort is 33 kms . We were told some good stories about this Fort which is situated on a pleatu of 7 kms and all plains around. It was a tactical fort but not at all strategic. It is a live fort as there is a huge population which lives between 7 gates of fort. Victory Tower is very impressive along with lot of other temples and monuments. There is a inner road on which one can drive and take round of entire fort. On the eastern gate side there is an identical but smaller tower known as "Tower of Fame" and a beautiful temple both constructed by followers of Jainism.
We left Chittorgarh and drove towards NH 79 via Bhilwara towards Vijay Nagar which was 132 kms. We took left turn towards Beawar and after driving 3.5 kms we reached Bijay Niwal Palace owned by once rulers of Masuda. In this dry summer it was like an Oasis with lush green grass and beautiful palace building in between. It is quite centrally located on Jaipur - Udaipur Highway and Sawai Madhopur - Jodhpur route. We were given a show around of property and hand good lunch there. It is very private 15 rooms property with very good use of Solar Energy, water treatement so that it can be used for various other purposes, automation was an positive eye opener. We drove back to Highway to take fuel and then continued back on State Highway to Beawar. It was good quality road. From Beawar we drove towards Bar and then we reached Nimaj at 1715hrs. Here too staff was very kind and service oriented after having cold towels and welcome drink we were taken to our room in Nimaj Palace. After some rest we decided to go around. We drove 3 kms to "Magar Mandi Mata Temple" of 9th Century which had history of construction, distruction, animal sacrifices and miracles. Walked thru a small village "Khera Deogarh". Drove further to sunset point by the side of Chhatrasagar Lake. We were back by 2000hrs. Spend some time chatting with owner Thakur Sahib. Had a early, very good dinner with variety of fresh vegetables, taste was so good compared to what we get in Delhi.
Day 6 - 15th June 2010 (Tuesday): Nimaj - Merta - Nagaur - Deshnok - Bikaner/ 304 kms
We prefferd to skip breakfast in order to start early, so after clicking some photos of Nimaj Palace in day light we left at 0635hrs. After driving few kilometers past Jaitaran we found a small row of vehicles as a tractor trolley turned turtle and a earth mover was trying to pull it up with help of villagers. There was no way out as other side of road was digged up for expansion of road. After 15 minutes we managed to get way being a car. On reaching we enquired about way to Mira Bai Temple in Merta which was thru very narrow roads. Mira Bai (1498 - 1547) was devotee of Lord Krishna and was from Merta. It is said to be only Mira temple in world. It is a small temple in complex of Charbhuja Ji Temple where Mira worshiped Lord Krishan.
After spending some 30 minutes in and around temple we started driving towards Nagaur. I have only heard about Nagaur Cattle Fair which is getting very popular with Foreign Tourist. We were told there is a Fort also. Were were in double minds as we have not planned yet if we will continue to Salasar Bala Ji or Bikaner can also be an option. We took chance and decided to visit this "Intelligent Fort". Our Guide Arvind Singh Naruka was very knowledgeble and kind, he instead of just telling stories informed us why Nagaur Fort is Important. I have not seen a place with such a good managemet of natural resources like, water, light and air. Planning and construction of fort was so good that any loss of these resources was avoided. We saw ways of water storage, drip irrigation etc there. Palaces of Amar Singh Ji, Hadi Rani and Bakht Singh were very beautiful. 16 Ancient havelies in fort complex are now getting converted in to a luxry hotel - RANVAS by Jodhana Heritage. Each haveli will have 2 - 3 independent double rooms. It should be ready by September 2010. This fort also has a huge open space where Welcome Heritage group puts around 100 deluxe tents during Nagaur Cattle Fair. We left Nagaur Fort around 1200hrs and stopped for some snacks at famous "Chhaganlal Sweet Shop" near Railway Station. Had "Mirchi Vada" & "Malpuas" brought some soft drinks, water and very good looking "Burfi" to eat on the way.
We drove much outside Nagaur and on a stand alone railway crossing while waiting for gates to be opend we met "Mr. Kumbha Ram Choudhary", a very kind man posted on this railway crossing. As train passed and we were ready to go he requested us to sit with him for a while. We learnt that there were almost 19 passenger trains going to almost every part of country cross this point. He said that we must visit Deshnok's Karni Mata Temple, so we drove towards Deshnok on our way to Bikaner. Very quite village and just behind small railway station was beautiful carved marble entrace of "Karni Mata Temple". This temple is also famous of amount of Rats openly moving in temple. I fear rats, but it was not at all scary once I was inside the temple. Rats were too busy relaxing or having good life. This is one of the most famous temples in Rajasthan. We continued our drive towards Bikaner where we reached around 3 pm after driving some 35 kms from Deshnok. City is big and we were asked to stop and then personally guided by Mr. Tejveer Singh who is a local. We followed him to reach Laxmi Niwas Palace which now a hotel is too impressive building. We forgot what all animal trophies we saw at Umaid Bhawan Palace after seeing the collection here. It is a hotel with so rich Red Stone carvings and net (jaali) work. After the show around, we had quick bite as we wanted to be at Junagarh Fort in time. Here about guide informed us about history of Bikaner and Fort. By the completion of tour I have learnt and agreed that Bikaner is undoubdtly been one of the most planned, advanced and rich state of all royalties in Rajasthan all because of great visionary - Shri Ganga Singh Ji. He was only Indian at Warsaw Convention with world leaders. Dr. Karni Singh (ace shooter) was also from royal family of Bikaner. Palces inside fort are very beautiful with rare and expensive paintings. After fort we visited "Bhanwar Niwas Palace" which is now a haveli of Rampurias converted in to hotel. We also saw some other beautiful havelis, visited "Bhanda Shah Jain Temple" which was constructed before Bikaner was established. We visited Lalgarh Palace Hotel which had recreational sports facilities a huge indoor swimming pool and huge pillarless hall. Had dinner at Laxmi Niwas Palace where we stayed that night.
Day 7 - 16th June 2010 (Wednesday): Bikaner - Raisar - Ratangarh - Tal Chhapar - Salasar - Laxmangarh - Mukundgarh - Jhunjhunu - Chirawa - Loharu - Satnali - Mahendragarh - Rewari - Dharuhera - Manesar - Gurgaon - Delhi/ 605 kms
We knew it was longest drive of the day and I also never driven this much in a day. Our aim was to visit Salasar Balaji and reach Delhi by evening. We started at 0645hrs from our hotel and followed Tejveer Singh to his Sand dunes site near Raisar which is 24 kms from Bikaner which includes 6 kms dirt road drive on left off Bikaner - Ratangarh Highway. This site has one side of plains farmland and on other forest land, has sand dunes as high as 75 feets which makes it a beautiful location of evening cultural programmes, sunset and dinner. Even at a distance there is a site where he pitches approx 20 swiss tents with attached bath. Site was good for theme dinners and other events.
We continued from there around 0750hrs and cruzed on excellent highway. We reached Salasar Balaji at 1050hrs, spent good 45 minutes in temple and around, had some snacks and drove towards Delhi. Our initial plan was to drive thru Narnaul but somewhere in between we came on a different route to Loharu and had visible option of driving thru Charkhi Dadri and Rohtak to Delhi but at the same time some one guided us for road to Rewari thru Satnali and Mahendragarh. It was excellent drive till we came on NH 8 at Dharuhera. We moved like a snail thru Manesar, got some speed in Gurgaon but again once it was Delhi, it was like most tiring phase of our trip. I dropped and thanked Sanjay for accompanying me on this trip at 1950hrs and reached back home in Delhi at 2015 hrs.
I was dead tired but had a great feeling of "Been There, Done That". I drove almost 2150 kms in 5 days and travelled in another car for 845 kms in 2 days.
Here is some important information about this trip where we visited:
Temples:
- Madan Mohan Temple, Karauli
- Kaila Devi Temple, Karauli
- Ganesh Temple, Ranthambore Fort
- Sun Temple, Jhalara Patan
- Krishna Temple, Keshavrai Patan
- Krishna Temple, Bassi
- Charbhuja Ji & Mira Bai Temple, Merta
- Karni Mata Temple, Deshnok
- Bhanda Shah Jain Temple, Bikaner
- Shri Balaji Temple, Salasar
Hotels
- Bhanwar Vilas Palace, Karauli
- Ranthambore Regency, Sawai Madhopur
- Taj Lodge, Sawai Madhopur
- Tiger Den, Sawai Madhopur
- Sukhdham Kothi, Kota
- Umaid Bhawan Palace, Kota
- Pal Haveli, Shergharh Fort, Baran
- Lake Palace, Nahargarh, Parsoli
- Castle Bijaipur
- Bassi Fort Palace
- Bijay Niwas Palace, Vijay Nagar
- Nimaj Palace
- Ranvas, Ahhichhatra Fort, Nagaur
- Laxmi Niwas Palace, Bikaner
- Bhanwar Niwas Palace, Bikaner
- Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner
- Camp Raisar
Monuments
- City Palace, Karauli
- Ranthambore Fort, Sawai Madhopur
- Indergarh Fort, Sawai Madhopur
- Bundi Fort
- Rani ki Baori, Bundi
- Bhawani Natyashala, Jhalawar
- Gagaron Fort, Jhalawar
- Darah Wildlife Sanctuary, Kota
- Bijolia Temple Complex
- Menal Temples & Waterfalls, Chittorgarh
- Bassi Temple Complex & Stepwells
- Bassi Wildlife Sanctuary
- Orai Dam, Bassi
- Chittaurgarh Fort
- Magar Mandi Mata Temple & ASI Museum, Nimaj
- Chattrasagar, Nimaj
- Ahhichhatragarh Fort, Nagaur
- Junagarh Fort, Bikaner
- Havelis, Laxmangarh
Driven thru following districts of Rajasthan: Bharatpur, Karauli, Sawai Madhopur, Bundi, Kota, Baran, Jhalawar, Chittaurgarh, Bhilwara, Beawar, Pali, Nagaur, Bikaner, Churu & Jhunjhunu.
You may reach me at: malayanil.singh@gmail.com
